Begur and its coves: a complete guide to the Costa Brava's prettiest corner
A hilltop castle town and a string of turquoise coves below it. The best beaches, where to stay, how to get around and how to do Begur without the crowds.
22 June 2026 · 8 min read
In short: Begur is a hilltop village above a string of turquoise coves — Sa Riera, Aiguablava, Fornells, Sa Tuna and Aigua Xelida. Stay clifftop at Hotel Aiguablava or the Parador, or in the village at Aiguaclara. Come in June or September, bring a car, and reach the coves early in summer.
Begur is the Costa Brava postcard: a hilltop village crowned by a ruined castle, with a handful of jewel-like coves strung along the cliffs below. It's compact, walkable and genuinely lovely — and a little planning keeps you ahead of the summer crowds. Here's how to swim, where to stay and how to get around, from the Baix Empordà coast's loveliest base.
The coves, one by one
Each Begur cove has its own character. Sa Riera is the largest and easiest with kids, with a sandy beach and a couple of restaurants. Aiguablava and neighbouring Fornells have the clearest turquoise water — the postcard shots — and the best swimming. Sa Tuna is a tiny pebble cove with a handful of fishermen's houses and a beloved seafood restaurant, while Aigua Xelida and Sa Riera's smaller neighbours are rocky, quiet and romantic.
The Camí de Ronda, the old coastal footpath, links several of them along the cliffs — the stretch between Fornells and Aiguablava is short, easy and spectacular, and the best way to see the coast at its most dramatic.
The village and the castle
Begur itself is worth time, not just a car park on the way to the beach. Climb to the ruined castle at the top for sunset and the whole coast opens up below you. The old town's distinctive 'indiano' mansions — built by locals who made fortunes in 19th-century Cuba and came home rich — give the village its character, and the main square fills with terraces at vermouth hour. There are good restaurants, a couple of wine bars and just enough buzz without ever feeling overrun.
Where to stay in Begur
On the cliffs above Fornells, Hotel Aiguablava is the family-run classic — unfussy rooms, a warm welcome and one of the great Mediterranean views; book a sea-facing room, as the interior ones miss the point. Right next door, the state-run Parador de Aiguablava shares almost the same view for less, with big balconies and a sea-facing pool — strong value, and good for families.
If you'd rather be in the village than on the cliffs, Aiguaclara is a ten-room boutique in a bohemian 1866 mansion, with a candlelit courtyard restaurant and the castle and bars on your doorstep. For more options up and down this coast, see our sea-view collection.
Beyond the beach
Begur makes a great base for the wider Baix Empordà. Inland are the medieval villages of Peratallada, Pals and Monells, ten to twenty minutes away; the rice fields and 'vies verdes' cycle paths around Pals; and the lighthouse cliffs of Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell a short drive south. A morning at the La Bisbal ceramics market or a long village lunch balances out the beach days nicely.
Getting there, parking and when to go
Begur is about 45 minutes from Girona–Costa Brava airport and 1h45 from Barcelona; you'll want a car for the coves, which aren't well served by public transport. In July and August the cove car parks fill early and some require booking or a shuttle, so arrive before mid-morning or use the village car parks and walk down.
For the trip itself, June and September are ideal — warm water, long light and room to breathe. May and October are quieter and lovely for the Camí de Ronda walks, if a touch cooler for swimming.
Frequently asked questions
Which is the best cove in Begur?
Aiguablava and Fornells have the clearest turquoise water and the best swimming; Sa Riera is the largest and easiest with children; and Sa Tuna and Aigua Xelida are the quietest and most romantic. The Camí de Ronda footpath links several of them.
Where should I stay in Begur?
For clifftop sea views, Hotel Aiguablava or the Parador de Aiguablava above the Fornells cove. To be in the village near the restaurants and castle, the ten-room Aiguaclara boutique.
Do you need a car in Begur?
Yes — the coves are spread along the cliffs and aren't well connected by public transport. Begur is about 45 minutes from Girona–Costa Brava airport. In summer, reach the coves early as the car parks fill fast.
When is the best time to visit Begur?
June and September for warm water and fewer crowds; May and October are quieter still and great for the coastal walks, if cooler for swimming. July and August are busy — arrive at the coves early.
